The ultimate summer baseball road trip: best seats, best food, best hotels — Stop #3: San Francisco
I’m deep into research for the third edition of my best selling travel book, Roadside Baseball. I started planning a West Coast ballpark road trip because in this edition of the book, I want to include even more special pieces of history found both in and around the parks.
Marriott International stepped up to the plate and it became a different sort of road trip; for me, the ultimate way to enjoy a baseball road trip by staying in some truly exceptional hotels. Throw in some of the best seats in the house and you’ve got the makings of a truly unique adventure. Ready? Let’s go!
Tour stop #3: AT&T Park, San Francisco
When it opened in 2000 as Pacific Bell Park (the first first MLB park to be built without public funds since Dodger Stadium), the new home of the Giants immediately became a favorite of locals and visitors alike. I mean, built against the picturesque San Francisco bay in the South Beach neighborhood, who couldn’t fall in love with this red brick beauty? Especially after enduring decades at blustery Candlestick Park?
Now re-named AT&T Park after a series of mergers, almost 20 years in, the park has only grown more interesting and seductive. Maybe it’s the scent of the water from McCovey Cove co-mingled with the garlic fries, whatever it is, this is a stadium that blends the perfect amount of classic retro ballpark character with modern sensitivity (In 2014, PETA declared the park to be the Most Vegetarian-Friendly MLB ballpark in the country). Walking to the park from our hotel, just a block away from AT&T you get a sense of the past when you step into a place named for the Giants former New York City home.
Then you arrive, greeted by a statue dedicated to perhaps the greatest of all, Willie Mays. Other statues and plaques are adorn the several entranceways, but this is the one most fans seems to pose with.
Once inside, to get a real sense of the natural beauty surrounding the park, you must head upstairs. The sweet sea breezes and mouth-watering scents of the sausages, burgers, aforementioned garlic fries and more waft up here and while it’s tempting to grab a seat and get hypnotized by the view, many treasures await down below.
The Vault
This season, the San Francisco Giants opened up “The Vault,” a spectacular museum to help commemorate the 60th Anniversary of the San Francisco Giants. Located inside the Lefty O’Doul Gate (and accessible to all fans inside the park), the exhibition currently on display for the 2018 season pays tribute to the last season of the Giants in New York (1957) and their move West to San Francisco in 1958. (Look at the wall outside before entering to discover an exact replica of the mythical Eddie Grant memorial plaque, which once hung at the Polo Grounds. Grant, who played for the Giants, was the first major leaguer killed during World War I. The original plaque honoring him has been missing for decades so it’s a treat to see this replica (and the replica Seal Stadium entrance sign).
Many of the coveted artifacts in the exhibition, including Willie Mays’ New York Giants home jersey from the 1957 season as well as the last home plate ever used at the Polo Grounds (September 29, 1957), have been loaned by baseball historian, collector and author, Stephen Wong. There are also items on loan from the collection of Rick Swig which include a 1957 Team signed baseball and a 1958 Marv Grissom game used home jersey, along with other artifacts.
Director of Archives Missy Mikulecky walked my son and I through the exhibit and explained how she has been tirelessly locating and curating artifacts and is already planning the next in what will be a long series of exhibits. But nothing prepared me for what she had hanging above everything, which she said will remain throughout any and all exhibits — it’s the actual lettering that once sat atop the Polo Grounds in New York. This is perhaps the single most impressive stadium artifact I have ever seen in my life.
After an impressive stadium tour, Charlie and I began to explore the stadium both inside and out. This is another park that is great for wandering, providing many interesting scenic “perches,” particularly in the outfield, which any tickets allows entry to.
It was nice finding the original plaque from Candlestick not far from the entrance to the Vault.
Fun for kids
As the team describes, “The Fan Lot is a family attraction, open year-round, that allows our young fans to run the bases, play the game and enjoy the timeless icons of baseball. It is a one-of-a-kind attraction that can’t be found anywhere else in the world, designed specifically for AT&T Park, the Giants, baseball fans and the community to enhance a day at the ballpark.”
The Fan Lot is open to ticket holders on game days and to the entire community on select non-game days. There is no charge to visit the Fan Lot and it features special slides, a mini-version of AT&T Park, giant baseball glove, Fantasy Photo booth and a mezzanine level offering great views of the game, as well as downtown San Francisco, the Bay Bridge and San Francisco Bay.
Here’s a link to the many other fan attractions at AT&T Park.
New Menu Items for the ’18 season:
The Garden:
- Garden Table: In addition to the seasonal salads inspired by what’s growing in the Garden, a new soft-serve ice cream options offers choice of peach and strawberry preserves, sliced strawberries, blueberries, kiwis, chocolate chips, ballpark crunch, sliced almonds, and assorted herbs. Irish Coffee will also be available.
- Hearth Table: Look for gourmet flatbreads with seasonal vegetables and toppings, on dough made without gluten-containing ingredients.
Promenade Level:
- McGraw Grill:
- New signature burger: The new “Juicy Lou” is a diner-style, cheese-stuffed creation adopted by Giants Mascot Lou Seal as his very own signature burger. The Juicy Lou will be sold exclusively at the McGraw Grill.
- New fries: Crinkle Cut Fries can be served plain or seasoned ballpark-garlic style, or topped with chili and cheese.
- Amped-up dogs: Look for all-beef foot-long hot dogs, grilled and topped with a choice of peppers and onions, sauerkraut, or chili and cheese. “Chicago-Style” dogs will be topped with chopped onion, green relish, tomato wedges, sports peppers, kosher dill pickle spear, ballpark mustard, and sprinkled with celery salt. Chicago-style dogs will be available starting at the McGraw Grill and may expand to additional locations at a later date.
- Dippin’ Dots: Dippin’ Dots ice cream will now be featured in two ballpark locations on the Promenade Level and the View Level, serving cookies and cream, rainbow ice, banana split, and other flavors.
- Say Hey Sausage: New pineapple sausage and spicy linguica sausages now available from the two Say Hey Sausage carts on the Promenade Level and the View Level.
- Garlic Fries Forever: Garlic fries can now be served in a Giants souvenir-style helmet.
- Tony’s Slice House: Chicken Parmesan Sandwich, fried ricotta-stuffed ravioli with marinara, and a New York-style veggie pizza.
- McCovey’s BBQ: A ribs and chicken platter.
- Great House of Brews: Battered and fried spicy green beans served with lemon aioli.
- The Organic Coup: Garlic Tater Tots and, new this season, açai bowls.
- Da Poke Man Window: Fresh ahi tuna poke served over your choice of rice, organic greens, or tortilla chips.
View Level:
- “Corona Beach Bar” will be open on the View Level in the early part of the season. It will be constructed of shipping containers and serve Corona and nachos.
Blue Shield Field Club:
- Derby Grill: Hot dogs and hot link and Polish sausages. In a change this year, all hot dogs and sausages will be served unwrapped, open-faced in a paper boat. The Field Club Dery Grill will also be serving the Impossible Burger, the juicy plant-based burger that tastes impossibly like beef.
- Snack Stand: Cinnamon-sugar nachos with house-made caramel.
- Bar San Pancho: Now offering a burrito bowl with choice of ground beef or achiote chicken and Spanish rice, black or refried beans, lettuce, crema, guacamole, or Oaxaca cheese. Also new: the Milanese de San Pancho, a fried-chicken torta.
- Zach’s Deli: The new “Triple Play” will offer a choice of three sliders — pastrami, brisket, corned beef, or turkey.
Alaska Airlines Club Level:
- The Cove: Now serving sweet-savory fish tacos, with beer-battered pollock topped with pineapple slaw and crema.
- Farmers: In addition to the just-picked fresh fare and warm house-made soups, enjoy craft beers on tap and craft cocktails on draft.
- Dog House: Featuring a bacon-wrapped dog and a new build-your-own dog with choice of sport peppers, sweet pickled relish, diced onion, fresh tomatoes, shredded cheddar, sauerkraut, onions, cilantro, assorted mustards, celery salt, chili, slow-roasted pork & beans, nacho cheese, and buffalo sauce.
- Derby Grill: Hot dogs and hot link and polish sausages. In a change this year, all hot dogs and sausages will be served unwrapped, open-faced in a paper boat.
Souvenir Cup: New Souvenir Cup designs will be introduced throughout the Giants season. Fans will see a new Opening Day Cup featuring the 60th anniversary logo, to be followed by the popular Giants schedule cup during the first homestands.
And again, there are plenty of interesting places to enjoy the game from, especially for groups:
•Dockers Deck is located atop the platform at the base of the glove in Center Field. Here you can enjoy a sweeping view of the ballpark, Bay Bridge and Oakland Hills from this memorable event space.
•The Candlestick Suite offers premium field level views with a taste of nostalgia. Enjoy the rich Giants history during their Candlestick Park days with your guests, by sitting in old stadium seats and remembering the ballpark with photos and memorabilia throughout the Suite.
In Triples Alley, guests can catch the action of AT&T Park from this unique and exclusive viewing point 30 minutes before the gates open to the public. Prior to the team taking the field, guests will be escorted along the warning track to their Lower Box seat for the game.
And note, the Giants also feature some of the best free WI-FI in the majors.
Free viewing!
I think the most unique aspect of this baseball palace, beyond just the jaw-dropping views, terrific food and overall exceptional ambiance is the free viewing area. In a pen behind a chain-link fence, at ground level under the base of the 24-foot-high brick wall in right field (by McCovey Cove), fans can enjoy this splendid window into the ballpark. 75 fans at a time are allowed to watch in three-inning intervals, unless it’s not crowded- then you can stad and enjoy as long as you like. As the New York Times observed, “The right-field portholes were styled on the romantic imagery of knothole gangs, children who peered into ballparks through holes in the wooden outfield fences — a view Norman Rockwell captured in a cover of The Saturday Evening Post.” Imagine riding your bike to the park and ducking underneath the stands to watch some major league baseball, not once inch from the field of play. For free. Baseball heaven, I think we found you.
Also, the San Francisco Bicycle Coalition operates a secure bike valet at AT&T Park. It’s located the Port Walk between the foul pole and the CHW Health Center, the facility opens two hours before every game and closes 30 minutes after each game.
All in all, as many fans from all over the world will attest, AT&T Park is simply one of the best places to watch/experience a ballgame. The atmosphere, the surroundings, the intense fans and the history of the franchise all combine to produce an absolutely unforgettable baseball experience.
The Westin St. Francis — a classic in the heart of Union Square
What can you say about the St. Francis? This elegant, iconic landmark opened here in 1904 and since then has become one of the true signatures of the city by the bay. Stately, refined and classic in every sense, it was a privilege to stay here. Presidents, celebrities — the air here is thick with the history of those who came before you.
A collection of hotel memorabilia is on display in the lobby, arranged by decade and featuring items such as vintage keys, dining ware, room service bills, photographs, and media articles.
We enjoyed breakfast in the elegant Oak Room —
The hotel is distinctive for a historic lobby master clock, the first in the Western United States, which has become a fabled meeting place over the years.
Our room was beautifully appointed and tasteful, however the real payoff was the view…
Our room overlooked Union Square from the third floor; simply one of the greatest views, in my opinion, in all of San Francisco. One of the hearts of the city on full display; a living, breathing work of art. Unforgettable hotel experience; highly recommended. I don’t think I have to explain any more how exceptional the location is in terms of convenience; we even walked to the ballpark, just over a mile and no hills.
EXTRA INNINGS: When the Giants first moved to San Francisco in 1958, for two seasons they played at Seals Stadium, home to the Pacific Coast League San Francisco Seals. The small park at the corner of Bryant and 16th was torn down after the 1959 season. We paid a visit to the site.
We also visited, on our drive from toward San Francisco from Seattle, a small historic ballpark in the northern California logging town of Dunsmuir, CA. It was here in 1924 that Babe Ruth visited to play in an exhibition with the locals during one of his many barnstorming tours of the era. We brought our mitts of course to have a catch on the exact site, and there I am standing exactly where the Babe batted all those years ago. A plaque honors Ruth’s visit to the area.
For more information about my books and to follow along on this baseball road trip, visit www.chrisepting.com and follow me on Twitter @chrisepting. You may also purchase the current edition of Roadside Baseball here.
More soon from Phoenix!
